Why did you come to Lake Tahoe? To savor the scenery, appreciate Western history or for the diversity of fun here?
The Tahoe Queen provides all three with its twice-a-day, two-hour Mark Twain's Scenic Emerald Bay Cruise departing from the Ski Run Marina in South Lake Tahoe.
A few high-pitched toots, then a low rumble of the paddlewheel churning, serve as the passengers' signal that the adventure is about to begin.
For the 20th season, the character of Mark Twain returns to conjure up recollections of the place the real author once called “the fairest picture the whole world affords.”
Strolling the decks in his customary white suit and ever-present unlit cigar, Twain, as portrayed by McAvoy Layne, delights guests with droll comments such as:
“Whenever I get the urge to exercise, I lay down 'til it passes.”
His easy manner relays Tahoe's history from the time of the Washoe Indians to the timber and silver barons. Even long-buried ghosts, and their tragic stories, are revived, but that is not surprising for the air at Lake Tahoe is, as Twain claims, “able to restore an Egyptian mummy to his former vigor.”
Joining the roster as colorful former residents are members of Reno's Good Luck Macbeth Theatre Company.
Bearded Capt. Dick Barter often is the gangway greeter. Also known as “the Hermit of Emerald Bay,” he lived on Fannette Island, with only Canada geese for neighbors.
As the mighty boat cruises toward his former domicile, Capt. Dick regales passengers with the harrowing tale of how, alone and injured, he had to perform self-surgery. Word of warning — the old recluse offers passengers the chance to handle souvenirs from the operation. Toes will tingle from the experience.
Coquettish Julia Bullette and Maude Adams are on the deck.
Lavishly attired in 19th-century haute de couture, complete with lace, silk and fluttering fans are Bullette, a beloved “soiled dove” of Virginia City, and Adams, the original stage “Peter Pan.” The ladies remind passengers that an air of civility did exist in the Wild West — at least until a man comes between them.
In celebration of her 25th year of cruising the lake, the Queen received a recent face-lift. More in keeping with an upscale saloon the brushed-cowhide wing chairs and crystal-beaded chandeliers now enhance the experience for passengers gazing at the lake and mountains from floor-to-ceiling windows.
One cannot live by fancy interiors and jaw dropping scenery alone.
The updated lunch menu shines with mouthwatering items such as a seared Mother Lode prime rib sandwich served with a spiced steak sauce, a grilled Portobello mushroom topped with sweet tomato relish, or the all-you-can eat chili, stew and salad bar. Entrees cost less than $11.
Adding to the meals' authenticity are the miners' pie tins, which hold the sandwiches while water and soft drinks come in a Mason jar.
For drinks with a bit more kick, a series of “character” beverages are available. A favorite is the Emerald Bay, where a blue Curacao float pays alcoholic homage to the turquoise waters of the Queen's destination, sitting on top of melon liqueur, tequila and other ingredients.
Aside from the summertime Twain cruise — the Tahoe Queen offers additional outings, year-round, from sunset to dinner cruises.