The Space
Occupying the space that used to be Balboa, Twenty-Two Bistro & Bar is another one of the Village at Squaw’s latest additions. The setting inside the half-moon shaped space is modern and elegant, with black decor. This place can get packed pretty easily, which makes the mood feel vibrant and hip. Spot lighting gives the dark room a nice feel and the lights over the white marble bar area provide ample light while enjoying an apres-ski beer, cocktail or appetizer.

The Food
Speaking of appetizers, the menu at Twenty-Two is stacked with upscale, flavorful “social plates,” providing the opportunity to try a variety of unique and tasty combinations without going overboard. Also on the menu you’ll find a few soups, salads, burgers and sammies, a few entrees, side dishes and “sliders” (mini burgers served in pairs). Billy McCullough, head chef and owner of Dragonfly, the successful Cal Asian dining room in Downtown Truckee’s Commercial Row, brings his signature expertise into Twenty-Two. The only difference being the menu at Twenty-Two has more of a “New American” flair than Cal Asian. The flavors are delicate and the ingredients taste succulent and fresh, probably due in a big way to McCullough’s “Slow Food” philosophy, which is committed to buying seasonal and sustainably harvested meats, seafood and produce. Whether you’re in the mood for a seared ahi salad, craving a juicy burger, a bowl of curry vegetable pot pie, just a light snack or you’re ready for an entree, the menu at Twenty-Two is decidedly a crowd pleaser.

The Drinks
You’ll find PBR, plus a host of microbrews on tap and a one-page, but thorough, wine list featuring many California and a few New Zealand labels. Twenty-Two also offers a full bar, with a number of specialty cocktails and hot drinks (like the hot apple pie concoction) getting a lot of attention. Staff say more hot drinks and specialty cocktails are on the way, so stay tuned.

Gotta Try
If you love Cal-Asian food (like this reviewer), I highly recommend the Steak and Noodle Salad. They throw in succulent chunks of Kobe Sirloin with mango, avocado, peanuts, basil, toasted coconut and mint. The medley of flavors in your mouth is energizing. My other recommendation is the Potato-Bacon “Donut Holes.” Described on the menu as “goat cheese sprinkles with red-eye gravy,” these rich nuggets of goodness are even presented in a brown paper “donut bag.” The gravy tastes very bacon-grease based and the tastes blend well together without being overwhelming.

Tidbit Making a difference: Chef Billy McCullough co-started the “Slow Food Lake Tahoe” chapter of Slow Food International. The group educates consumers on sustainably harvested, seasonal food choices.

Price Range
Soups run about $9 a bowl, salads from $8 to $14, burgers and sammies run $11 to $15, entrees go from $19 for the Beer Can Chicken to $24 for the Kobe Beef short ribs. Social plates range from $5 to $13 and there’s about five side dishes that each run $5.