Kirkwood features heaps of terrain and some of the deepest, steepest lift accessible powder fields in the region. It’s a big resort that skis like a mom and pop place, a quality that is at once charming and also a little old school. Parking and lift improvements are on the way, in the meantime expect some growing pains in order to access some of the best terrain around.

On the hill:

• The skiing:
Most of the mountain is no-joke steep, especially off the top. Pair that with notoriously big dumps and you’ve got a place that is not best described as a beginner’s mountain. Think of it like this: The greens are green and the blues are blue, but both are sparse. An intermediate skier can have a good time and tour the whole mountain, but will have to wait until black diamond (and in some cases even double black diamond) is a regular word in the vocabulary before venturing to the top.

• The Lift Time:
While Kirkwood’s out-of-the way location no doubt keeps ultra-massive crowds away, the resort’s ancient chairs tack on time you gain by not waiting in endless lines. Especially bad – Chair 10 and Chair 4 – but you end up making the sacrifice anyway because the terrain is just too damn good to pass it up. The old dress in layers concept is especially true at Kirkwood. It’s cold on the chair, often windy at the top and sometimes balmy at the bottom.

• Gotta try runs:
Beginner: Squirrel Ridge off of Timber Creek Express is the best place to link turns.

Intermediate: Fawn’s Ridge and everything else under The Wave off Chair 4.

Advanced/Expert: Wagon Wheel Bowl provides a vast area of terrain to explore. It’s all equally good, but access the Bowl from Chair 6 and you can avoid the dreaded Drain back to the lift. Palisades Bowl also gets my vote. The options are endless and the further out you trek, the fresher your tracks.

• Runs to steer clear of:
Nobody likes it when their day goes down The Drain, but if you’re going to ride Wagon Wheel, that’s a sacrifice you’ll have to make at some point. The Drain is a steep, narrow gully that is consistently bumped out, crowded and often icy. Ski Wagon Wheel down to the Cornice Express lift (Chair 6) and you can cut above The Drain. And, if you’re not a completely confident double black diamond skier, stay off The Wall please. Seriously, please stay off.

Off the hill:

• The food and drinks:
Although you might not expect haute cuisine and spirits at Kirkwood’s out-of-the-way location, you’re in for a real treat. At the mountain, stop in for a tasty Bloody Mary at Monte Wolf’s and enjoy some East Coast inspired grub (the burgers are awesome) at Bubb’s Sports Bar, run by Sully, the quintessential Bostonian.

Looking for the locals? Stop in at the Battered Beaver, the standalone hotel to the skier’s right at the base of the mountain. There’s often a crowd lingering into the late evening and the personable bartenders have been known to get extremely experimental with their drinks. Ask for the Crotchless Ski Pants if you’re feeling frisky.

And if you can pull yourself away from the slope side amenities, a trip to the Kirkwood Inn is definitely recommended. Steeped in local lore (be sure to read up on Snowshoe Thompson, the area’s first ski hero), the Inn’s long been the local watering hole for folks on the Carson Pass. Located on the convergence of three county lines – El Dorado, Alpine and Amador – this former bar-on-wheels survived prohibition by simply wheeling from county to county when officials would come to shut the place down. Order a Mudslide and a bowl of Chili that comes with delicious jalapeno cornbread.

• The staff:
Kirkwood employees are of the laid back variety. Although resort crowds swell the population on weekends and powder days, this is essentially a small town and that’s definitely the vibe you’ll get from the folks who work here.

• Retail shops:
Kirkwood Mountain Sports (KMS), located in the Village Plaza and online, is a breath of fresh air in resort retail. Run by the passionate Coop, a former coast guard rescue diver who in 1988 committed his life to snow sports, KMS operates as a vehicle to finding the perfect fit in winter apparel and gear. If fashion is your forte, the selection of the latest and greatest is incredible. If last year’s style fits the bill, checkout the KMS closeout corner.

Every KMS employee is a serious rider, skier and certified boot fitter. They practice what they preach. All the KMS fits are guaranteed and with the store’s extensive demo center you have the opportunity to try out nearly anything on the mountain before you buy.

• Rentals:
Now, here’s a novel idea: Why not rent powder skis? You know, those two-by-four looking things that actually shovel snow out of the way as you speed through sparkling sugar fields? Renting gear at Kirkwood is like taking a Porsche for a test drive. The Timber Creek Lodge, which opens at 8 a.m., has a unique partnership with the ski and snowboard school that allows learners of all levels to test their mettle with the best equipment on the market. And the service is quality to boot.

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